After his father and grandfather, Augustin David continues to write Favray’s wine history in Saint-Martin-sur-Nohain

Augustin David’s estate is located northeast of the Pouilly wine appellation. “A little bit different,” emphasizes the grower, who works with 18 hectares of vines, located at a site called Favray, around residential homes. That is quite rare. And gives the wines “a pretty distinct identity to the hill with very lime soil,” points out the vice president of the wine association.

The fruits of family labor. “When my grandfather bought the property in 1957, there were no vines since the late 19th century because of the phylloxera fungus. He bought the farm to make grain. Then, when my dad settled in the 1980s, he decided to plant vines. There were no vines in Pouilly-Fumé, other than Nohain, for a century. We were the first to replant in this area. »

The first to have replanted in this area of ​​the appellation

Having everything from one source, “it’s practical to work with,” says Augustin David, who settled in 2019 with his father after working part-time for two years at the estate. “The furthest plots are 1km away. On the other hand, in the case of a climate at risk, it is more unpleasant. Especially since the area is quite sensitive to frost. To protect from this, we use a sprinkler system. »

reward The call of the vine is stronger than anything for Maudrys at the Maltaverne estate in Tracy-sur-Loire

Every year, new vines are planted on this estate, where all of its production is marketed in bottles and 80% of which is exported. “My father learned how to make wine, to develop the market,” notes Augustin David, head of a 190 hectare grain farm and breeding 10 AQPS racehorses.

Four permanent employees (three in charge of the viticulture and one on the farm) work on the farm with Augustin David and his father Quentin, two associates. Sophie, wife of Augustin, a saddler and leathermaker, could come to join them. “She trained at Sicavac and at the Cosne wine school to learn to cook,” her husband said. If the vineyard’s mother is not directly involved in the vineyard’s work, she is present through her works, paintings on porcelain, exhibitions in the cellar.

Our series on grape growers in Pouilly

Augustin David, a graduate of the Higher Agricultural School in Angers (ESA), was never “definitely” a wine grower. “I wasn’t aware of it until I was 100% back on the pitch. Because after completing a final thesis at FNSEA in Paris and then touring the Mediterranean (Morocco, Egypt, Israel, Palestine), with agricultural and cultural differences being the red thread, During his censorship year, he left to work in the French oilseed sector, in Casablanca, Morocco. He will be there in two. Before moving on, when he returned to France in 2017, to work part-time at the Favray estate and carry out assignments in Tunisia, Burkina-Faso aimed to restructure the sector.

An experienced serving of today’s young grape growers, is also the president of Racines et des Plaines, administrator of the French Federation of Oilseed Producers (FOP), of ESA in particular. “It’s not easy to find the balance between all that and the field, but it’s also been motivating for me. It’s stimulating. Stimulate. »

Responsible

Not to mention that a year after the installation, he joined the promotion committee of the Pouilly Wine Syndicate “to perfect the site, choosing the graphic charter. I participated in all of this. And very quickly, President Katia Mauroy-Gauliez asked her to accept responsibility, especially as the project on terrorism and climate, focusing on soil and climate research, biodiversity, was about to be launched. motion. “We had to campaign quite extensively. Brewer, public partner. It would have been easier if I had a union responsibility. And Augustin David, 32, appreciates. And don’t forget its core business by adding its touch.

The site, he explains, has long produced a single communal house, “representing the hills of Favray”. “Always in the logic of the collection of conspiracies. But a second cuvée is being developed and is starting to be marketed. “Tonnerre is produced on a specific soil, the Tonnerre limestone, which is not common in Pouilly. It gives a fairly mineral wine. With global warming, it is a soil that stays cool in the hot summer. A third, more secret cuvée has also seen the light of day. In 2010 and 2020. It was aged in casks to “bring more roundness and richness in the mouth”. It bears the name of the Lady of Favray. A nod to history.

reward Vincent, twelfth generation of Châtelain, winemaker in Saint-Andelain

Augustin David’s grandfather, a history buff, researched the site, a former research institute where Françoise de la Rivière, the woman-in-waiting for Queen Margot, was buried. in Donzy-le-Pre. This is why the estate is named after Chateau Favray. The viticulture past has resurfaced thanks to Davids ever since an 18th-century newspaper was found in the house of Augustin David’s grandfather.

Food and wine. Chateau Favray. This is the main residence of the Château de Favray estate, the result of a mix of plots, well suited for shellfish, cheese, fish, white meat or oysters. Thunder. A parcel-based cuvée related to the Tonnerre limestone, which helps preserve the soil’s coolness during hot summers. It goes well with products that contain iodine. Lady of Favray. More secretly, produced in 2010 and 2020, it is recommended with white meat, dishes with sauces and even a dessert.

Matilda Thomas

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